Milan Fashion Week between bourgeoisie, sensuality and desire to party
"I find it hard to concentrate on the present, as the wise men would advise, because it is above all the future that ignites my desire and imagination, because that's where we will see each other again, dancing, singing, telling each other that we made it ". So writes Lorenzo Cherubini, aka Jovanotti, on his Instagram profile on the Sunday of Milan Fashion Week fashion shows in a digital version for the FW 2021/22 women's collections. Although he talks about his sacrosanct desire for music, it is a phrase that fits perfectly with the Milan fashion week on which the curtain fell after the ultra-vinyl catwalks in strong colors by MSGM , the punk-chic of Valentino Nothing compares to you, Pierpaolo Piccioli, paraphrasing Cosima's live soundtrack) and Dolce & Gabbana's 90s technicolor hedonism.
A year ago these days Italy was sinking into the terrifying abyss of the coronavirus epidemic. Giorgio Armani in a hurry had decided to parade behind closed doors and to many it still seemed impossible to stop the country, as it happened shortly thereafter. Today things still don't turn out so well between partial lockdowns; yellow, orange, red areas depending on the intensity of the outbreaks; companies and commercial activities at risk of collapse if it is not possible to start again soon. But there are also the first vaccinations, the hope of quickly achieving herd immunity and regaining some normality. In this complex scenario, here comes fashion.
How will the fashion mood for next Autumn-Winter be? It is difficult to establish today how we will turn to dress in six months, since we do not even know today when the clubs, cinemas and theaters will reopen. Yet this is the task of creatives and everyone has tried to give their answer, sniffing the air. And in the air there is a très bourgeois breath of dressing up, greeting in Queen Elizabeth style both the pre-pandemic street-oriented horde and the comfort-cocoon dimension of too many days spent at home. To this is added a strong mannish component, capable of communicating with the desire to discover and seduce, which breaks skirts, reveals lingerie, plays with transparencies. And a subtle as well as irrepressible desire to go back to dancing, to party, to dream among sequins, crystals, sparkling embroideries.
On the chic ladies with a twist front, Walter Chiapponi for Tod's emerge, Kim Jones's operation still in the running-in phase for Fendi , the always wonderfully ironic vein of Jeremy Scott at Moschino , the show by Gilberto Calzolari and the debut with a bang of capsule collection by Elena Mirò signed by Alessandro Dell'Acqua , who has instead become the standard-bearer with his N.21 of a new idea of sexyness. And a bold and convincing seductiveness is that of Alessandro Vigilante , very good at making BDSM latex sophisticated. A little exasperated instead that of Giuliano Calza with GCDS and hyperbolic is the version by Nicola Brognano for Blumarine , which gives a shoulder to the imagination of a romantic lady of roses in the past dear to the brand.
The masculine reworked with charm succeeds well in Max Mara , this year on the seventieth anniversary of its foundation, in Etro with his series of supercool trousers, in Paul Andrew who from Salvatore Ferragamo reinterprets it in a space age key, in Daniele Calcaterra who for the his brand Calcaterra has designed exclusive fabrics for Gabriele Colangelo , who is good at introjecting unexpected fraying.
And the wind of celebration blows across the board, desired, awaited, dreamed. It can be in sophisticated total black a la Giorgio Armani , in a gypsy key as seen by DSquared2 , conceptual according to Luca Lin and Galib Gassanoff anime of Act n ° 1 , gender-bender for Sportmax , linked to Sardinian folklore by Antonio Marras Sardinian of the finale!), but fashion wants to light up, to sparkle, especially to dance. With a footnote, that of Prada , at the third appearance of the creative co-directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. The two summarize in their show the bourgeois not at all bourgeois, the androgenic accents and those of a party girl: intellectual, for heaven's sake, but still a party girl.
Ah, in general: shaking ankles, platformers are back.